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L'Express
Master Critic Reviews (3 Lists)
L'Express
8.4
Vibes:
Late Night Legends
Comfort Food Classics
Solo Dining Sanctuaries
Business Lunch Power Players
A timeless Lyonnaise-style bistro that’s been feeding Gramercy late into the night for decades, with a menu full of comforting French standards. Expect steady execution, old-school charm, and a crowd that treats it like their second living room.
Must-Try Dishes:
Steak frites, Soupe à l’oignon gratinée, Roast chicken with jus
Scores:
Value: 8.3
Service: 8.1
Consistency: 8.8
Food Quality: 8.6
Atmosphere: 8
Cultural Relevance: 8.5
What makes it special: A true NYC French bistro institution that stays open when you need it most.
Who should go: Night owls, regulars, and classic-bistro purists.
When to visit: Late-night supper or a relaxed weekday lunch.
What to order: Onion soup, steak frites, roast chicken.
Insider tip: Order a rotating daily special—often the best value on the board.
L'Express
8.4
A Gramercy stalwart serving textbook steak frites at nearly any hour, with fries that are golden, slightly beefy from the drippings, and built for dunking. The room feels old-Paris-meets-NYC-night-owl, and the kitchen rarely misses. Great for a sit-down fry fix with real bistro polish.
Must-Try Dishes:
Entrecôte Steak Frites, Onion Soup Gratinée, Croque Madame
Scores:
Value: 7.3
Service: 8.2
Consistency: 8.7
Food Quality: 8.8
Atmosphere: 8
Cultural Relevance: 8.2
What makes it special: One of NYC’s definitive steak-frites counters with 24-hour bistro swagger.
Who should go: Night owls and steak-frites purists
When to visit: Late evenings or off-peak brunch
What to order: Steak frites, escargots, croque madame
Insider tip: Sit at the bar for the fastest service and best people-watching.
L'Express
8.2
A Lyonnaise bistro that feels like a late-night Paris postcard, with red banquettes, mirrors, and a soft buzz that’s romantic without being precious. The menu runs from onion soup and steak-frites to comfort-classic roasts, keeping dates easy and flexible. Great for couples who want a lingering meal that can stretch toward midnight.
Must-Try Dishes:
Onion Soup Gratinée, Steak Frites, Roast Chicken
Scores:
Value: 8.2
Service: 8.4
Consistency: 8.5
Food Quality: 8.3
Atmosphere: 8.1
Cultural Relevance: 8
What makes it special: All-hours French bistro charm with reliably well-executed classics.
Who should go: Couples who love long, unhurried dates.
When to visit: After-theater or post-bar late dinner.
What to order: Onion soup, steak frites, roast chicken.
Insider tip: Walk-in late; the back booths often open up after 10pm.